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Thread: lets create an up to date power supply list

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    Default lets create an up to date power supply list

    i've used deathskull labs a lot over the years for power supply questions but it has fallen behind the times in terms of newer and more exotic consoles. hardly a week goes by on these boards where somebody isnt posting a power supply question. instead of giving them 3 or 4 often contradicting answers in the forums how about we make a list and have it "peer reviewed". by that i mean a list that you can trust, one that wont maybe fry your console if you follow.

    i think i'll start researching this and throw up some initial data, i encourgae everyone else to do the same
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    Your post gave me an idea --

    Deathskull Labs should be mirrored. In my experience it seems mirroring is usually done for bandwidth-related reasons, but I'd hate to see Deatghskull Labs go away. It's a terrific resource, and I'd hate to see the site go down for whatever reason (Jay loses interest, takes his ball and goes home after some unforeseen squabble, is run over by a bus, can no longer afford to run the site, system crashes and he has no backup, whatever...).

    Well, I'm off to seek out a method of archiving an entire website. I think I'll also send Jay an email askiing him if he has a problem with me archiving his site.

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    well seeing as how jay laid the groundwork for a power supply page it might be good just to see if we can build out from his work? i've never found anything on his list to incorrect, it just needs to include more systems to cover the wide world of game collecting.

    just think of all the questions that arise, i've seen more sega power supply posts than i can remember, and what about stuff like the turbo duo and so on. can you use a saturn ps on a dreamcast and on it goes.

    there needs to be a good list somewhere and this seems like the most logical spot. i guess TV out cables would be a logical addition, and then controllers... i thought this idea was so obvious i even checked this site to see if it already existed.

    during the day tomorrow i'll start digging some facts up.
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoahsMyBro
    Deathskull Labs should be mirrored. In my experience it seems mirroring is usually done for bandwidth-related reasons, but I'd hate to see Deatghskull Labs go away. It's a terrific resource, and I'd hate to see the site go down for whatever reason (Jay loses interest, takes his ball and goes home after some unforeseen squabble, is run over by a bus, can no longer afford to run the site, system crashes and he has no backup, whatever...).
    I never thought to mirror his entire site, but the power supply page has been copied and is also archived here at Digital Press (see our FAQ page, http://www.digitpress.com/faq.htm ).

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    time to get this project moving, i've added some power ratings, these are gleaned from my own collection and not online sources so i can attest to their accuracy in that respect. my additions to jay's list are in red. please review the listings, feel free to comment or re-edit them in your post, lets refine this list as we go. there are still a lot of holes on this list to be filled, if you have any additional hardware on hand to add please do.

    magnavox 450 CDI
    +5V DC 3.3A
    -5V DC 0.25A
    plug type unique phone jack like plug
    polarity NA

    Turbo Duo
    10V DC 1000mA
    plug type coaxial
    polarity center positive

    Nintendo 64
    DC 3.3V 2.7A
    DC 12V O.8A
    plug type unique 6 pin power pak

    ATARI LYNX model II
    DC 9V 3.0w
    plug type small coaxial center negative

    Neo Geo Pocket
    DC 3V
    plug type micro coaxial center positive

    Turbo express
    DC 7V center positive coaxial

    Sega Game Gear and Nomad
    Rating 9VDC, 1A
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity Center negative
    Alternative Atari Jaguar
    TurboGrafx-16

    Game.com (model 1)
    rating DC 6V 0.48W
    adaptor= 9V DC 300mA coaxial


    Atari 2600 Rating 9VDC, 500mA
    Plug type 1/8" phone
    Polarity Tip positive
    Alternative All atari-made models of the 2600 have compatible power supplies.

    Atari 5200 Rating 4-port: 9.3VDC, 1.95A
    2-port: 11.5VDC, 1.95A
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity Center positive
    Alternative The power supply for both the 2-port and 4-port are identical and completely interchangeable, even though the plates indicate different ratings.

    Atari 7800 Rating 9VDC, 1A
    Plug type unique
    Polarity
    Alternative Nothing I can think of

    Atari 2800 / Sears Video Arcade II Rating 10VAC, 750mA
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity n/a
    Alternative Atari 5200
    Atari Jaguar
    SMS / Genesis
    TurboGrafx-16

    Atari Video Pinball Rating 9VDC, 500mA
    Plug type 1/8" phone
    Polarity Tip positive
    Alternative Atari 2600

    Atari 600XL, 800XL, 65XE Rating Regulated 5VDC, 1.5A
    Plug type 7-pin DIN

    Pinout 4 1 6 = +5VDC
    5 3 7 = GND
    2 = no connection
    Alternative none
    Important notes This power supply has its own regulation. Do not try to power the console with an unregulated power supply.

    Atari Jaguar Rating 9VDC, 1.2A
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity Center negative
    Alternative TurboGrafx-16

    APF M1000, APF MP1000 Rating 7.5VAC, 800mA
    Plug type ?
    Polarity ?
    Alternative ?

    ColecoVision Rating Regulated 5VDC, .9A
    Regulated -5VDC, .1A
    Regulated 12VDC, .3A
    Plug type Weird
    4 1

    3 2



    Pinout 1: +5V (white)
    2: -5V (blue)
    3: +12V (red)
    4: GND (black)
    Alternative Nothing on this planet. Don't even think of plugging a TI99/4A power supply into it.

    Emerson Arcadia 2001 Rating 12VDC, 600mA
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity Center positive
    Alternative Atari 5200 (loose fit, though)

    Magnavox Odyssey˛ Rating 11.5VAC, 400mA
    Plug type Early: 1/8" phone
    Later: coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity n/a
    Alternative Early: Atari 2600
    Later: Atari 5200, NES

    Intellivision II
    or

    Entertainment Computer System
    Rating 16.7VAC, 1A
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity n/a
    Alternative Atari 5200
    Atari Jaguar
    TurboGrafx-16
    Notes That 16.7V jazz is utter horseshit. I can't believe people go to such extreme measures to find a substitute power supply for these things. It's actual power requirements are about as generic as they get.

    NEC TurboGrafx-16 Rating 10.5VDC, 730mA
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity Center negative
    Alternative SMS / Genesis

    Nintendo NES Rating 9VAC, 1.3A
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity n/a
    Alternative Atari 5200
    Atari Jaguar
    TurboGrafx-16

    Nintendo SNES Rating 10VDC, 850mA
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity Center positive
    Alternative none

    Sega Master System Rating 9VDC, 1A
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity Center negative
    Alternative Atari Jaguar
    TurboGrafx-16
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    The Genesis 2 power supply also works for the Game Gear (and I think the 32X and Sega CD but I don't have those in front of me right now to check).

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    Virtual Boy
    DC 9V 500mA
    plug type- clamp on power pak

    Sega 32x
    DC 10V 0.85A
    plug type coaxial center positive
    (genesis apt model #2103)

    Sega CD (frontloader)
    9VDC, 12A
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity Center negative
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    gleaned from online sources, would prefer a first hand verification-

    Action Max -- 9V DC 500Ma Positive Tip or 4 C Batteries

    Leisure-Vision -- 12V DC 500Ma Positive Tip

    JVC x-eye --9.5V DC 1.5A Positive Tip

    TurboGrafx-16 + CD Unit -- 11V DC 1.53A Negative Tip

    Gameboy -- 6V DC Negative Tip

    Game Boy Color -- 3V DC 300Ma

    Nintendo Gamecube -- 12 V DC 3.25A Nonstandard Connector

    Sega CD II -- 9V DC 1.2A Negative Tip

    Sega Channel -- 15V DC 400Ma Positive Tip

    Sega Pico -- 10V DC 0.85A Positive Tip

    Supervision -- 6V DC 350mA

    saturn, dreamcast playstation 1- indications are that all 3 cords are interchangable as the power conversion is done inside the console, hence no brick. however i have noticed that all saturn cords are rounded in the same way.

    all of this info was cut n' pasted from
    http://www.geocities.com/cpepin1976/voltages.txt

    if you have any of this hardware on hand, take a second to double check it.
    NEW ENGLAND CLASSIC GAMING-NEXT TRADEMEET pretty soon... IN BOSTON

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    Quote Originally Posted by christianscott27
    TurboGrafx-16 + CD Unit -- 11V DC 1.53A Negative Tip
    This is correct. Does anybody know of any suitable alternative Power supplies? Also, just to clarify Negative tip means the center is negative.

    I can also verify the following:

    JVC x-eye --9.5V DC 1.5A Positive Tip

    Game Boy Color -- 3V DC 300Ma

    Nintendo Gamecube -- 12 V DC 3.25A Nonstandard Connector

    The following have internal Power Supplies, and require a Power Cord which differentiates ground (like the PSX power cord, where one of the holes on the end is square and one is round).

    Saturn
    Dreamcast
    Playstation (Not PSOne)
    Phillips CDI 220
    Xbox (doesn't require a ground differentiating power cord)

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    New stuff for the list, no idea if it's there already but here we go:

    Panasonic FS-A1 MSX2 Adapter:

    Unique male end connector: instead of prongs, there's three holes. Plug shape is odd, sort of like a triangle affixed to a square. Prongs are really tough stuff, so if they're bent (like mine) you won't be able to bend them back.

    From the label:

    AC ADAPTOR FS-AA51
    (input, I believe; label for this entry is in Japanese) AC100V 50/60Hz 23VA
    (output) DC9V 1.2A
    AC18V 170mA

    Sega Nomad power adapter

    Odd end to the plug that fits in the Nomad with yellow tip; little spot in the center with a keyhole shaped space. From the label:

    Model MK-2103
    Input: 120V AC 60Hz 15W
    Output: 10V DC 0.85A

    (-)--(C--(+)

    (How do I read this shorthand?)

    Philips CD-i 370 ("handheld" unit)

    Box-on-a-cord style; plug is rounded on one end and flat on the other. From the label:

    AC/DC Adapter Model 22ER9159/17
    Input: AC 120V, 50/60Hz, 45W
    Output: 21V === [Similar to that but the top line is connected all across) 1.7A

    That's all I've got in the way of even slightly unusual plugs.

    Sorry for the lack of more technically comprehensible language but that's the best I can do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Oscuro
    (-)--(C--(+)

    (How do I read this shorthand?)
    You read that as Center Positive, or Positive Tip.

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    PS1 (the small playstation)
    DC 7.5V center positive coaxial

    Tomy Tron Handheld, tomy caveman (tandy caveman lists 6V??), tomy pac man, tomy scramble
    7.5V DC 200mA
    coaxial center negaitve 2.1mm

    sega pods-
    DC 10V 0.85A
    plug type coaxial center positive
    (genesis apt model #2103)
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    Game Doctor SFIII by Bung SNES/SFC Backup Unit
    Rating 9VDC, 1A
    Plug type coaxial ??mm/??mm
    Polarity Center negative
    Alternative Atari Jaguar
    TurboGrafx-16

    Mega Drive 1:
    Sega model # 1602-5
    Input: 240V ~ 50Hz
    Output 10V ---- 1.2A
    Outside Positive, inside Negative.

    Mega Drive 2:
    Sega model # 1636-5
    Input: 240V ~ 50Hz
    Output 10V ---- 850mA
    Outside Negative, inside Positive.

    APF-M1000 & MP1000
    7.5V AC/0.8 Amp or 12V DC/0.5 amp

    APF Imagination Machine
    13.8V AC/1.25 Amp

    RCA Studio II
    note DC power is taken thru the TV switchbox
    9V dc at 300mA (or you can use 250mA)female socket.

    Odyssey 4000
    9VDC, tip positive
    small mono plug type
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    JVC X-eye
    9.5V DC
    coaxial center positive
    subs- yellow tipped genesis 2 PS
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    Now see, this is just annoying. I could swear I read somewhere online a few years ago that the AC Adapter plug Atari used on the 7800 power supply WAS IDENTICAL to the connector on a relatively common cordless phone battery, thereby allowing a person to splice the connector from the battery onto a different AC Adapter. You could easily find the battery, easily find a Power Supply with the correct specs, and just splice the connector on.

    Now, of course, I can't find the info anywhere! I want to say the cordless phone battery was for a Panasonic, but that's simply my recollection, and I could easily be mistaken.
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    In a 7800 FAQ I found this:

    7800

    Input: 120VAC 60Hz 15W
    Output: 9VDC 1Amp
    Polarity:

    _
    -----| |-----
    - | o o | +
    -------------

    [looking into the power supply]

    If you cannot find a 7800 power supply but are comfortable with a
    soldering iron, one possibility is to find similar connectors and
    solder them onto a more easily-found power supply. Mitchell Orman
    (Msorman@aol.com) suggests using an end connector from an old cordless
    phone battery. For the one he procured, the part was made by Philmore
    and is the Panasonic type #BC1000. Caution: the connector will plug in
    to the 7800 either direction so one needs to mark polarity correctly.
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    from the AA 7800 FAQ-

    # What power supply does the 7800 use and where can I get one?
    Unfortunately, the 7800 uses a proprietary power supply that you cannot buy off the shelf. You can find the correct power specs, but the physical tip is proprietary. Here are the specs:

    Input: 120VAC 60Hz 15W
    Output: 9VDC 1Amp
    Polarity: Looking into the power supply, negative is on the left, positive on the right:

    _
    ___| |___
    - | 0 0 | +
    |_________|


    If you cannot find a 7800 power supply but are comfortable with a soldering iron, one possibility is to find similar connectors and solder them onto a more easily-found power supply. Try using an end connector from an old cordless phone battery. Caution: the connector will plug in to the 7800 either direction so one needs to mark polarity correctly.

    Another possibility is to buy a more standard jack and just solder it in parallel with the original connector, then buy a power supply at Radio Shack for a few bucks.

    One good place to solder alternate power connections is to the two joints on the underside of the board, located near the original power plug (the polarity is easy to follow because the traces from the power and to the barrel capacitor are polarity-marked). Either an external jack (1/8" mono) can be run through the old jack's hole (or a vent hole) -or- an internal jack can be installed where convenient such as the thick "strut" near the original hole or on the right side (when facing the unit for play). You can use a 2600 power supply; the only difference is half an amp, which the techies say doesn't matter much.
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    A much simpler substitute is to use a 2 pin female connector used in PCs to connect the power LEDs, reset switch, etc to the motherboard. Perfect fit, and a lot easier than hunting down some obscure phone battery.

    Be sure to mark it with the correct orientation. Once you plug it in, you'll have time to turn on the console to ensure that you've plugged it in right. If the power LED doesn't turn on, change the plug orientation and try again. If you plug it in backwards and leave it there, even if you don't try and turn the console on, within a few minutes you will hear a *BANG* and smoke will rise from the console.

    The replacement value of the exploding cap is 2200uF@16V.

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    I was thinking of a layout something like...

    this

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    @FABombjoy

    What a remarkably vivid description of the aftermath of a polarity error with a 7800. I think I'll take your word for it.....
    ... for your gaming and iPod service needs http://www.oldschoolgamer.com/ For all your Video Game console and iPod upgrade/repair needs!

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