Power is drawn on the appropriate +5,-5, and +12 pins.
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Power is drawn on the appropriate +5,-5, and +12 pins.
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No special connector, you just have to crimp those y connectors on the proper harness wires. This is what the switcher looks like that powers a JAMMA board.
Here is the link.
They generally look like this, and you can buy them at lots of places. You then can wire a standard edison to this and plug it into the wall. While I don't own a supergun, I would assume that the set-up would incorporate this power supply somehow.
Also here is an image to what I refer to as Y connectors. You crimp the little blue ends onto the wire and loosen the appropriate screws on the switching power supply, then tighten them down on the "y-connector"
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Last edited by TheDomesticInstitution; 01-02-2010 at 08:33 PM.
Ah, so I take the connector off of the power supply and solder the correct wires from the supply to the harness? I've seen some with y connectors that normally would go into that switcher, I just solder the wires to those?
Does it matter which ones? I can just solder any +5v wire to any +5v clip as an example?
No, no soldering. Crimp the blue y connector things on your jamma harness and then loosen the screws on the PS and slide them in.
But I'm using a PC power supply, so I guess I'll have to solder?
Sorry I can't help you on that. I know nothing about PC power supplies, my jamma cabs run off a switcher like what's in the picture above.
That's fine, after looking it up a bit, I get what I need to do.
What about the video connectors, how does a harness attach to an encoder? I'm guessing it goes from the actual JAMMA board to the encoder, but I might be wrong.
Last edited by Tupin; 01-03-2010 at 01:00 AM.
Hooking up a JAMMA harness really couldn't be easier. The JAMMA harness connects to the edge of the PCB in question, with one wire going to each of the pins on the board. To hook up a power supply, all that is needed is to connect the 12v, 5v, (-5v), and ground wires to the appropriate lines on the power supply; if you are using a PC power supply then you will need to cut and solder the wires from the supply.
To connect to a video encoder, the same thing is true. Just locate the red, green, blue, video ground, and video-sync lines, and connect them to the appropriate terminals on you encoder. The only other thing that you need to know is how to hook up buttons and switches, and all that you need to know is: if you want to tell the board that a button is "on," then connect that button's pin to ground. So, every button is connected to that button's pin on one side, and to ground on the other.
That should honestly be enough information for you to wire up the entire harness. For more information check out this site:
"How to Wire In A Jamma Harness".
Bob Roberts knows what he's doing, and if you have a question wiring your supergun, you're likely to find an answer on his site.
Okay, I decided that I'm going with a Genesis controller simply because it's cheaper to find the controllers. I'm not sure about how to wire the ports up, the pinouts I've seen are kind of confusing. I'm just gonna buy a DB9 serial port at RadioShack, how exactly do I wire it up?
Oh, and for the coin/start switches, I figured since I'm making the controller removable, can I just use a standard electrical pushbutton switch?
Last edited by Tupin; 01-06-2010 at 03:59 PM.
Also decided that I'm going to use an Amiga monitor instead of an expensive video encoder, I'll just wire the RGB to a female DB-9 connector and connect it to the male DB-9 connector on the monitor via another DB-9 cable with opposite connectors on each side. I think I'll be able to connect audio to that as well.
I'm not entirely sure about this, but I don't think that you want to use a Genesis controller for your Supergun. As far as I can tell, you would need to build a multiplexer circuit to read the buttons on the gamepad. It seems that the Genesis controller port uses a "select" line, so that each of the other wires going to pad can be connected to two different buttons (depending on whether select is enabled or not).
Don't quote me on this though, I'm nowhere near 100% sure about this.
I happen to be building a Supergun as well (albeit slowly over the last 2 years) and I decided that I would just make my own controllers, with a unique pinout that I decided upon--of course, this is an expensive and time consuming way of doing things. Another option is to buy a Neo Geo controller off of eBay, since these controllers are supposed to be pretty simple to use with a Supergun.
The only problem I can forsee with this solution is when playing newer Capcom stuff that has that nifty six-button layout -- Neos, of course, have only four buttons.
And really, who wants to play Street Fighter II without all the available moves?
EDIT: However, you may not care about newer stuff that uses six buttons, in which case a four-button pad is perfect.![]()
On the bright side you would be getting your money's worth. Neo Geo pads are high quality, very precise. I use them on my supergun.
For the monitor, the only detail that's important is that it can accept a 15 khz RGB signal. I don't know which model you have so I can't verify that detail for you, but I assume you already have it worked out.
I would still wire sound to 2 RCA jacks.
I wire mono to two jacks for stereos or TVs that dont put the single channel on both speakers. You can do it with a couple of surface mount RCA jacks, or to some female cables.
For coin and start, my supergun is wired to neo geo, but with select being coin and start being start.
Hm, how do I get the +5v to the ports if I use all of the power supply wires to the harness?
I have RCA jacks, the central pin is positive and the outer pin is negative, so I connect the respective wires to the correct place, but that still only gives me enough wires to solder one port.
I have never built a supergun from a PC power supply, but the PSU should provide 5 and 12 volts on the 4 pin molex connectors that you would use for hard drives/optical drives in a PC, if you need more leads.
Makes sense, but what about the audio? There's only enough wires on a harness to hook up one RCA jack. Do I split the wire or something?
In my supergun are little terminal blocks, I simply put another spade terminal on a wire and screwed it down with the other one and split the signal. If you dont have a terminal block you could split the wire in other ways, tehres probably clamp/crimp wires for it.
If you want stereo from MVS as well you would probably need to install a switch.
What about using an RCA jack splitter like this?:
http://www.provantage.com/cables-go-29121~7CTBP01W.htm
Oh, and I found the RGB pinouts for an Amiga monitor, and it doesn't carry audio apparently. I'm going to wire the port up so it fits with an Amiga monitor and use a serial extension cable to link the two and hook the audio pinouts into external speakers using an audio splitter to split the audio to two speakers.
At least with an Amiga monitor, it's easy to turn it on its side for vertical games, all my TVs are flat screen that can't rotate.
Might take a bit, though. Some guy on my local Craigslist wants $150 for a 1080, lawl. I might be able to use one of the old IBM-style monitors I have, if I can find the pinouts.
Last edited by Tupin; 01-07-2010 at 08:44 PM.
I found the pinouts for my Tandy CM-4 monitor and here's the pinouts:
1 Ground
2 Ground
3 R (Red Video)
4 G (Green Video)
5 B (Blue Video)
6 Intensity
7 No connect
8 Horizontal Sync
9 Vertical Sync
I guess for pin 6 I don't need anything and I can just wire the video sync to either pin 8 or 9 and it doesn't matter?
I am not sure if a TTL CGA monitor (your Tandy is one if I read that pinout correctly) is your best bet. I do not believe those can take analog RGB signals from arcade boards.
The term CGA gets tossed around a little loosely, it can be used in the PC world to describe early color adapters that had a separate intensity signal, or anything around 320x240 or below for analog RGB.
And yes that audio adapter should work fine if you dont want to wire it inside the SG.
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