Advice on a possible buy.

[freckledpeas]

Joust doesn't have an edge connector.

I stand corrected when I mentioned an "edge connector", so thanks to Peale for the info on Joust boards. The concept is the same, however... You'll just put the leads of your multimeter on pins instead.

Just personal preference, but I always check the power supply first before even checking the power at the board... just because it's easy to hold the leads "chopstick-style" to get your measurement here, and it'll tell you right away if your power supply is dead, or just not putting out enough juice.

This really is a fun hobby to get into, so good luck with your repair.

[Masco73]

Thanks for the help. I will get a multimeter and get to work. I also, will get some before and after pics going. I will let you know how I make out. Thanks again all.

[Peale]

If you need a meter, I have a basic meter in my store.

[Masco73]

Thanks , but I have one already. I was looking over the boards closely this time and found that the f5 fuse was missing!! Could it be that simple?? I will be getting one at radio shack today and I will let you know how I make out.

[Peale]

Thanks , but I have one already. I was looking over the boards closely this time and found that the f5 fuse was missing!! Could it be that simple?? I will be getting one at radio shack today and I will let you know how I make out.

I guess it all depends on what that particular fuse does.

[Masco73]

Went to radio shack Sunday, Of course, they have a hundred different knds of fuses except what I need. So, they ordered it for me and now I need to wait until Thursday or Friday to get them.

[Peale]

So what does that particular fuse do?

[Tommy]

Went to radio shack Sunday, Of course, they have a hundred different knds of fuses except what I need. So, they ordered it for me and now I need to wait until Thursday or Friday to get them.

Damn, I was reading this thread yesterday and was awaiting the outcome. Oh well, I guess I will just have to wait.

[Masco73]

So what does that particular fuse do?

It says according to the drawing set it is the +5vdc +12vdc unres. and the led that is out is the +5vdc. Also, this fuse is on the Power supply board.

You can see a drawing of it here: ( you need to click on PS Layout)

http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/manua...rawing_set.pdf

[Peale]

Yeah, +5V is pretty important.

If it blows again immediately I'll bet you need to rebuild your PS.

[Masco73]

Got the fuses today and put one in. It blew in a few seconds. The led that was out turned on for a second. So do you think the best bet is to fix the linear pwer supply?? This machine also has a switching power supply. I think they have a rebuild kit on Bob Roberts.

[Peale]

I'd rebuild the linear one. Though I'm wondering why the linear one is still hooked up if there's a switcher in there. Is the switcher hooked up?

[Masco73]

Yes, The switching one is hooked up also. Here is a pic of the inside:

[Peale]

Do you think you can get bigger pictures? I can't make out any details.

[Masco73]

Here are the full size pics. This site must have shrunk them.

[Peale]

Okay...it looks like someone put that switcher in place of the original linear PS. It's supplying +5V and +12V to the board.

Use your meter and see if it's doing anything. In other words, check the voltages coming off that PS.

[Masco73]

Well I went to check with the meter today. The only problem is I had no idea where to put the leads. I gave it a try anyway. I put one lead on the +5/12vdc wire on the switching power supply and the other on the metal part where the fuses go in. The meter read on fuses the following:
f1= -4.2, f2=.03, f3=12.8, f4= -.01, f5=13.7

I have no idea if I put the leads in the right place to measure, but some of the readings came close to what they should be. If this was wrong, let me know. I tested them on dc volt setting. If you want to se the drawing set, go up 8 posts and I have a link.

The f5 fuse was the one blowing out and it should be +5 res/ +12 unres. and it is reading 13.7 vdc. Does this mean the switching PS is bad or did I just confuse everyone. Let me know what to do next. Thanks again for all the help!!

[Peale]

Read the voltages on the screw terminals on the switching power supply. Black lead on ground, red lead on the others.

[Masco73]

OK, I put the black lead on the ground(where the brown wire is in the pic) and tested each screw down and had no readings all zero's for each screw. Does that mean it is shot??

[Peale]

Sounds like it. Meter the AC going in to the supply to make sure it's getting juice before you write it off.

[Masco73]

If I need a new switching PS, are they all the same or do I need one with certain specs. The Joust one on Bob Roberts is $45 plus shipping, but there are others on ebay that are way cheaper. This one for instance:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...n%3D3%26ps%3D5

Just trying to save a few bucks here. I would switch it back to the linear one if I had any idea how to.

[Peale]

You don't want that eBay one. It outputs 24V and 12V, no 5V!

I'll sell you a used working one for ten bucks plus shipping.

http://www.pealefamily.net/arcade/st...products_id=13

[Masco73]

I will get that now. Thanks!! Do you think that 4116 chips would be fried too??

[Masco73]

Peale, just tried to use your paypal checkout and it gave me a error code. I also said notify storeholder of problem. PM me a email address and I'll Paypal you directly. I also need a total with shipping.

[Masco73]

Finally got the new power supply installed. The monitor came up, but with a garbled screen. The screen is a scramble of colors. View picture below.(sorry cell phone picture) There also is no sound at all. Any suggestions on what to do next??